By MARIKA MCELROY CAIN
A close-to-home sojourn delivers time to unwind.
It had been the longest year of our lives and the shortest. “Well-rested” was a mythical land that existed only in distant memories, a mirage that flickered across miles of nighttime feedings. Any new parent can relate: It was hardly possible to recall a time when we weren’t consumed with baby talk, baby breakthroughs and worries, baby paraphernalia. And yet, somehow the red-faced, bleating little stranger who had arrived to stake his claim to our hearts a mere 12 months before had transformed in an eyeblink into a babbling, crawling, miniature human.
To celebrate Oliver’s one-year milestone, my husband, Ben, and I could think of nothing more appealing than an entire week together with our son and no set agenda. Sure, we’d had long weekends visiting relatives, but those were mostly shoehorned in between work deadlines. It was time for a real vacation. We decided to strike out in search of respite from the Seattle winter, hoping for some family time and maybe, just maybe, a little sleep.
Kauai seemed ideal. A relatively short hop from home? Check. Guaranteed warm weather? Check. Kid-friendly culture and accommodations? Check and check. Add to this the island’s mellow pace and egregious natural beauty, and you had the recipe for an idyllic week of bonding. Probably, I thought, bathed in the constant attention of both of his parents, Oliver would take his first steps. Maybe even say his first word.
Our base for the week was the Keoneloa Suite at the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa in
Poipu on the island’s south side. A generous foyer, dining area, and living room opened onto a balcony that put us eye-to-coconut with the tops of palm trees and framed a vast network of pools and the crashing Pacific. A separate bedroom meant that while Oliver snoozed, Ben and I could lounge on the balcony or relax by the pool with the baby monitor.
We spent the first couple of days doing nothing much. We lounged, read, and watched intermittent downpours roll in off the ocean, then dissipate. We awakened to the chatter of mynahs, lingered over breakfast, navigated the resort’s massive, meandering pool, wandered the 52-acre grounds, ordered room service, and otherwise failed to leave the property save for a short jaunt to a restaurant in a nearby shopping center.
By our third day on the island, I was anxious to get out and explore. “What should we do?” I asked the guys.
“What’s wrong with what we’re doing now?” Ben said from his lounge chair on the balcony.
“Bada bada bada,” Oliver suggested.
“Say ‘beach,’ buddy,” I countered, forming the word slowly and clearly. “Beach.”
For all its laid-backness, Kauai’s options are vast: We could drive up to the edge of Waimea Canyon and peer into its jungly abyss, a 3,567-foot-deep chasm carved by the runoff of millions of years of tropical downpour. We could get prehistoric at Allerton Garden, which looks just like it did in Jurassic Park; hike all or part of the precipitous Kalalau Trail; laze on any of a handful of family-friendly beaches, from Lydgate to Ke’e. If Oliver were a little older, we could hop a helicopter – a great way to see why most of this rain-forested isle is inaccessible. Or we could charter a catamaran for an early-morning voyage along the Na Pali Coast and watch hundreds of dolphins frolicking off the boat’s bow.
But the Pacific’s rhythmic shhhuk, shhhuk, shhhuk outside was eroding my ambition. So were the warm breeze and the genuine affection nearly everyone we met gave our son – from the tattooed twentysomething server at the upscale Roy’s in Poipu to the hotel valets. Kauai’s easy pace was soaking in. Perhaps it was best to embrace the fact that the vistas from Waimea’s lip and the majesty of Kauai’s myriad waterfalls would be lost on a 1-year-old.
Lesson one in traveling with children: Lower your expectations. That doesn’t mean lowering your standards – just accept that you’ll do less. Case in point, our first excursion to Hanalei.
We rallied for the hour-and-a-half trip that afternoon and were duly rewarded. The drive itself was relaxing. It’s virtually impossible to get lost on Kauai. The main drag nearly encircles the island, petering out at the rugged and impassable Na Pali Coast. Oliver regaled us from his car seat with baby talk, and outside, Kauai’s verdant vistas rolled by.
En route from Poipu to Hanalei on the island’s north shore, we passed through Kapaa, which is home to a weekly farmers’ market and a few good restaurants. Farther north, Princeville’s resort polish prevailed at a tasteful shopping center. The St. Regis Princeville Resort, which is closed for major renovation and slated for a July reopening, stair-stepped down a dramatic promontory above the ocean.
Hanalei was the proverbial pot of gold near the literal end of the rainbow. The town’s center, a little string of shops and restaurants, is dwarfed by imposing green mountains. A few blocks away, surfers congregated at the sandy horseshoe of Hanalei Bay. Beach cruiser bicycles with surfboard racks leaned unlocked against shop railings. People eating shave ice lounged under thatched umbrellas at picnic tables. A passing shower had departed, leaving a rainbow in its wake.
At Shave Ice Paradise, a stand decorated with biblical quotes in rainbow colors, we ordered a guava-pineapple version of the frosty Hawaiian treat.
“Ba ba ba!” Oliver gushed when Ben spooned some of the slushy dessert into his mouth.
“That’s right, buddy,” I told him. “Can you say ‘beach’?”
“Da ba ba ba!”
Inside The Hanalei Gourmet, one of a few businesses housed in the former Hanalei School, a chalkboard menu listed enticing fresh-fish sandwiches and fish-and-chips. Nearby, at sleek Bar Acuda, tawny staff members were prepping for tapas-style dinners featuring such dishes as honeycomb from the island’s north shore with Humboldt Fog cheese and sliced apple. Our mouths were watering, but naptime was imminent and our window of opportunity was closing. I let go of the impulse to push the outing beyond its expiration. We could come back to Hanalei. Our time this week was our own.
Lesson two in family travel: Let the current take YOU where it may. I mean this in a grand metaphorical sense, of course. But taken literally, it can be quite satisfying, too.
The day after the Hanalei excursion, we stuck closer to home. Breakfast was coffee, Pass-O-Guava juice, and pastries on the balcony at the hotel’s Stevenson’s Library – lower key (and lower price) than the hotel’s lavish breakfast buffet. In the late morning, we drove ten minutes northwest to the small town of Koloa in search of nothing in particular.
We drifted among Old Koloa Town’s bright false-fronted buildings until we saw a brisk business being done at a hole-in-the-wall along the main street. The Koloa Fish Market’s humble setup – a postage-stamp porch with a couple of folding chairs served as its dining room – belied its fantastic fare. The deli case brimmed with the bounty of the sea: seaweed salad, bento boxes, seared ahi, and more. Generous portions of sautéed ahi with caper butter, teriyaki, or wasabi cream sauces; kalua pork; and other island favorites held down the center sections of plate-lunch takeout containers. The smaller compartments were filled with macaroni salad, poke, or fresh slaw. We carried our meals to a park down the block and picnicked beneath the crumbling lava-brick tower of the island’s first sugar refinery.
Back at the hotel, a swim beckoned. And not just to us. Families of all persuasions flocked to the series of free-form pools: A couple kayaked in the salt lagoon with their toddlers between them; a pair of fortyish parents shouted up to their teenage daughter from one of the hot tubs; an athletic-looking guy we dubbed “Superdad” tossed his three slaphappy kids into the water. And in spite of the whirl of activity, there was no need to jockey for pool chairs as at the resorts on some of Hawaii’s more touristed islands.
Ben and I took turns pushing Oliver in his floatie until we happened upon the pool’s lazy river. As Ben steered our baby in his craft, together we floated downriver, a tranquil trio with nowhere to be but exactly where we were.
Lesson three: Seize the moment. This is good advice for any vacation, really, but with children on board, its urgency is doubled. If the sun is shining and the child is ready, go.
In the spirit of this sentiment, we executed a perfectly timed outing northward. It was our second-to-last day on Kauai, and my resolve to conquer all tourist attractions had faded into a pleasant desire to do nothing, as had my wish to cajole any major “firsts” out of my child. Oliver would say his first word and take his first step when he was good and ready. In the meantime, there was an ocean waiting.
Oliver napped en route to our destination, the far-flung (for Kauai) Ke’e. It’s the terminus of the road north, the jumping-off point for Na Pali Coast hikers, and, we had heard, a great beach. We did a drive-by of the dramatic Kilauea Lighthouse and passed once more through Hanalei, vowing to return for fish-and-chips at The Hanalei Gourmet later in the day.
Outside town, the road twisted and narrowed. A series of one-lane bridges forced us into a leisurely pace until the road finally dead-ended at a calm reddish-gold beach. Only a few other people dotted the small sandy cove. Offshore, snorkelers bobbed placidly. I scooped Oliver up and headed for the water, dipping his little toes in the surf. He held my hand and splashed gleefully, then stood mesmerized as the small waves sucked the sand from beneath our feet and swooshed back in, swirling around his belly. The sun, which had been playing hide-and-seek all morning, popped out. The water sparkled.
Soon it would be time to leave the beach, time for lunch, time to return home. Soon enough, too, time for Oliver’s first day of kindergarten – and his last day of high school. Soon, but not yet. Oliver and I waded out farther and let the warm ocean surround us, utterly at peace and looking forward lifetime of trips together.
Island Time
Where and how to while away a Kauai vacation.
GETTING THERE Hawaiian
Airlines offers direct flights to Oahu from ten cities in the western U.S., and to Maui from Seattle, Portland, and San Diego. Kauai is a 37-minute hop from Honolulu.
STAY A short drive from the airport in Lihue, Poipu’s 52-acre beachfront Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa wins families over with 602 rooms, a network of free-form pools (including an adults-only pool and a poolside bar), an Anara Spa with indoor and outdoor treatment rooms, and seven restaurants. Doubles from $500, including spa access, breakfast, and appetizers in Stevenson’s Library.
Slated for a July 1 reopening, The St. Regis Princeville Resort will be Hawaii’s first St. Regis property. The redesigned 252-room resort has a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant, an infinity-edge pool overlooking Hanalei Bay, and a 10,000-square-foot spa. Doubles from $650, including breakfast daily and a manager’s cocktail reception.
DO Early birds get the view when they hop aboard for a 6:15 AM departure (7:15 in the winter) on Captain Andy’s five-hour catamaran cruise: Scores of dolphins frolic in the boat’s wake, the snorkeling is fantastic, and the views of the Na Pali coastline are the stuff of photographic fantasy.
Kauai’s original helicopter service, Jack Harter Helicopters, whisks sightseers over the island’s cliffs, into its canyons, and up to the cloud-shrouded Mount Waialeale, where the summit averages 460 inches of rain each year.
EAT For a slice of authentic Kauai, stop by The Hanalei Gourmet, where regulars and tourists mix in the small, come-as-you-are dining room. Fresh-fish sandwiches and fish-and-chips are the crowd-pleasers here. 5-5161 Kuhio Highway, Space 5, Hanalei; 808/826-2524; hanaleigourmet.com.
Jim Moffat, a veteran of San Francisco’s fine-dining scene (42 Degrees, The Slow Club), oversees the inventive fare at Bar Acuda, an upscale tapas restaurant in Hanalei. 5-5161Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; 808/826-7081; restaurantbaracuda.com.
No Hawaiian vacation would be complete without a plate lunch. Grab a gourmet meal in a take-out container from the tiny Koloa Fish Market and eat on the porch or wherever your day takes you. 5482 Koloa Road, Koloa; 808/742-6199.
Expert picks
Families That Travel Together ...
Drawing on their insider expertise, Virtuoso travel advisors shared hundreds of great ideas for vacations that will please the whole clan. Here are nine surefire winners.
East Africa
Why go? “Set aside the BlackBerry and cell phone for two weeks to share time and experiences together. Air service here is plentiful, and the dollar goes a long way in both Kenya and Tanzania.”
Don’t miss: “Micato Safaris offers a family-oriented safari where children can help build a mini Masai hut, cast big-cat tracks from the real thing, create beaded Masai jewelry or traditional Swahili masks, or join in a soccer game with local schoolchildren.”
Alaska
Why go? “Cruise lines are offering great deals right now.”
Don’t miss: “Salmon fishing in Ketchikan, whale-watching in Juneau, the scenic rail journey from Skagway, bear-watching, and the domed railcar trip to Denali National Park.”
Costa Rica
Why go? “It’s close to home with lots of family activities, from surfing to zip-lining, in a beautiful setting amid jungles, cloud forests, and great beaches – not to mention wonderful hotels and villas.”
Don’t miss: “Zip-lining in the jungle!”
Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks
Why go? “This region is relatively inexpensive even if you splurge on luxuries. In addition to national parks, the outlying communities offer many great family activities: hiking, rafting, kayaking, rock climbing, horseback riding, fly-fishing, and watching for wildlife together.”
Don’t miss: “In Yellowstone, hire a guide to take you to out-of-the-way places to avoid the crowds. Float the Snake River in a wooden boat early in the morning or late in the day.”
Walt Disney World
Why go? “In 2009, get free admission on your birthday.”
Don’t miss: “A special-occasion celebration at the California Grill atop Disney’s Contemporary Resort. After dinner, catch the Magic Kingdom’s spectacular fireworks show from the restaurant’s huge picture windows or its 15th-floor catwalk.”
Charter a Barge in Europe
Why? “Such value! Prepay in U.S. dollars and included are virtually all meals, an open bar, sightseeing with a private vehicle and driver, and the use of onboard facilities (such as bicycles and a Jacuzzi, if the barge has one).”
Don’t Miss: “Cruise the Alsace region on French Country Waterways’ eight-passenger Princess in July and August or explore southern Burgundy on the 12-passenger Adrienne.”
Belize
Why go? “It’s an easy destination to reach and offers jungle adventures, Mayan ruins and
culture, and some of the best snorkeling and diving available in this hemisphere.”
Don’t miss: “Swimming with whale sharks off Placencia during the full moon in April and May and cave tubing – floating on inner tubes through caves used in Mayan ceremonies.”
Washington, D.C.
Why go? “The country has a new president!”
Don’t miss: “The American Museum (home of Dorothy’s red shoes and the first ladies’ inaugural gowns), which just reopened following an $85 million renovation. The Smithsonian museums (all offer free admission), including the Air and Space Museum at Dulles, featuring the space shuttle Enterprise. Check out historic Alexandria, Virginia, and Georgetown, and take a day trip to Williamsburg.”
Galápagos Islands
Why go? “This year marks the 200th anniversary of Charles Darwin’s birth and the 150th anniversary of the publication of On the Origin of Species.”
Don’t miss: “Abercrombie & Kent’s October 22 sailing, aboard the 48-passenger Eclipse, accompanied by Darwin’s great-great-grandson Randal Keynes. Attend the grand-opening celebration of the new Darwin Facility in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.”