By JUNE NAYLOR
Where to eat now at top tables across the country.
If the growth in must-try new restaurants from coast to coast serves as any indication, the economy hasn’t affected our collective appetite for exceptional edibles. The past year delivered an enticing number of openings that beckon you to book a table now. Some of these fabulous food capitals were so generously blessed, in fact, that we just had to recommend two new spots instead of only one. Dig in.
Thanks to Virtuoso advisors Peggy Jones, Peter Herff, and Bob Malmberg.
NEW YORK
THE JOHN DORY
Why it’s worth a visit: A culinary who’s who put this seafood pub on the Meatpacking District map.
Mario Batali teamed up with other notables in town to bring new energy to a historic building facing Chelsea Food Market. Shell-framed mirrors and fishing lures figure into the decor, as does a giant aquarium, putting you in the mood for charred striped bass, grilled octopus, and red snapper ceviche. 85 Tenth Avenue; 212/929-4948; thejohndory.com.
CONVIVIO
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Passionate interpretations of Southern Italian cuisine raise the Midtown dining bar.
This casual trattoria hums with neighborhood familiarity. Solo diners feel comfortable but it’s cozy enough for dates, too, both indoors and outside on the patio. The antipasti menu is laden with such things as slow-poached veal with salsa verde, capers, and egg, or braised pork meatballs with Parmigiano-Reggiano and broccoli rabe – at surprisingly moderate prices. 45 Tudor City Place; 212/599-5045; convivionyc.com.
PHILADELPHIA
OYSTER HOUSE
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Hailed as a “Philadelphia classic, reinvented,” the best oyster palace in town offers a whole new energy, menu, and look.
Reopened after a thorough and impressive reinvention, this smash hit is perfect for drinks or a casual family dinner in a setting defined by hardwood floors, subway tiles, whitewashed brick, and a cocktail rail made from antique milk glass. Right away, locals began calling it the finest raw bar on this part of the East Coast. An approachable menu includes roasted dishes such as oysters Español with crispy chorizo and cilantro lime butter, oysters fungi with vermouth and thyme, and clams casino with red pepper and bacon. 1516 Sansom Street; 215/567-7683; oysterhousephilly.com.
DISTRITO
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Chef Jose Garces, with recent James Beard and Iron Chef recognitions, puts Mexico City on the plate.
Whimsy-on-steroids defines this high-energy scene in the West Philadelphia neighborhood, where two dining floors are splashed with hot pink and green and decorated with lucha libre (free fight) wrestling masks, a jukebox, and rattan-covered banquettes. You can even sip one of 60 kinds of tequila in a booth made from a VW Beetle. Better yet, try a fresh-fruit margarita with scallops al pastor, marinated scallops grilled with fresh pineapple, or guindilla chile-marinated lamb chops. 3945 Chestnut Street; 215/222-1657; distritorestaurant.com.
WASHINGTON, D.C.
COMMONWEALTH
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: The gastropub concept lands in the capital city, delivering contemporary, clean interpretations of British bar food.
Owner-chef Jamie Leeds, who enjoyed a meteoric rise from Union Square Café in New York to the Washington Terrace Hotel in D.C., now turns heads in newly hip Columbia Heights with fresh, seasonal, locally produced ingredients that lighten up the traditional fish and chips, bangers and mash, and Sunday roast, the latter served family-style. Appealingly affordable, the pub offers warmth in a setting noted for vintage, salvaged barnwood, and its hangout spirit plays out on tables set for games of checkers, backgammon, and chess. 1400 Irving Street NW, Suite 109; 202/265-1400; cwgastropub.com.
ATLANTA
ABATTOIR
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: It’s on the leading edge of the latest meat-centric food trend. Suitably placed inside a meatpacking plant, fashionably rehabbed to reveal rustic, exposed ceilings and worn brick walls, this large, meat lovers restaurant takes on soft touches from fresh wildflowers on tables to a wood-burning fireplace on the patio, all evoking the feel of a comfortably worn Belgian home. With a “whole animal cuisine” focus on small plates starring offal, such as tripe stew with pork belly, fried chicken livers with sweet pickled onion relish, and lamb sweetbreads with sour plums and rosemary, the progressive menu – which also offers jewels for fish and vegetable eaters – scored an instant hit since its spring debut. 1170 Howell Mill Road; 404/892-3335; starprovisions.com.
MIAMI
SRA. MARTINEZ
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: No tapas menu is hotter.
Opened last December by James Beard Award winner, ballerina turned chef, and Top Chef darling Michelle Bernstein, along with her husband David Martinez, Sra. Martinez matches substance with its considerable style. A Seville-styled remake of an old post office in the trendy Design District, the lounge-feel hangout offers indoor and outdoor tables, overseen by huge bullfighter and flamenco posters. A savvy selection of wines and sherries pairs beautifully with the kaleidoscope of small plates, with standouts including the classic pan con tomate (tomato bread), roasted piquillo peppers, and a comforting tortilla, as well as inventive offerings such as the sea urchin sandwich with soy-ginger butter. Moderately priced dishes add up, but the tab’s worth it. 4000 NE Second
Avenue; 305/573-5474.
NEW ORLEANS
IRIS
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Devine deviations from the Southern norms elevate this swank bistro.
The genius level of energy offered in this cuisine-driven favorite – which recently relocated to expanded digs in the French Quarter – comes at the hand of co-owner Ian Schnoebelen, who was among recent Best New Chefs noted by Food & Wine. Pairing unlikely ingredients spells inarguable success, witnessed in plates such as the green-peppercorn-crusted yellowfin tuna with baby greens, proscuitto, and cornichons, and seared scallops with braised Vietnamese greens and grapefruit butter. The bar offers similar creativity in wild cocktails accented with botanicals such as pine needles for foodies unafraid to drop good money on a great evening. 321 N. Peters Street; 504/299-3944; irisneworleans.com.
CHICAGO
L2O
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: A fish-centric ode to beautiful dining balances a playful attitude with hip sensibilities.
French native Laurent Gras has been called “a chef of terrifying talent” by no less than Anthony Bourdain. Gras employs clean ingredients from small producers to serve lobster with Tahitian vanilla, chanterelles, and watermelon radishes or cod with green olives, lemon, and grits. Go slowly into the multicourse experience, easing in with the house aperitif, a flute of Champagne infused with strawberry and hibiscus juices – a sublime way to sink into the Lincoln Park setting noted for ebony tables and towering columns, white leather chairs and blond wood paneling. 2300 N. Lincoln Park West; 773/868-0002; l2orestaurant.com.
THE PUBLICAN
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Impressive beer-pairing cuisine revolutionizes thinking about meat-and-brew dining.
Opened last fall in the Fulton Market neighborhood, this spacious, popular pub offers Belgian atmosphere and clever presentations of rustic dishes like natural Angus beef heart from Montana’s Meyer Ranch served with mushrooms and bone marrow, as well as lighter offerings such as striped bass in a preserved tomato and black-olive vinaigrette. Even the brunch dishes fascinate with the likes of wood-fired eggs served with Gouda, harissa, and grilled bread. A good value, this one’s perfect for dinner or brunch. 837 W. Fulton Market; 312/733-9555; thepublicanrestaurant.com.
HOUSTON
RDG+BAR ANNIE
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: The new signature restaurant from revered Southwestern cuisine trailblazer Robert Del Grande.|
Consider this a best-of Café Annie in the revamped Uptown-Galleria neighborhood. Replacing a three-decade-old legend, this sleek new edition had patrons eagerly awaiting its opening in mid-summer. The clubby, two-story showplace done in red Western cedar, Mexican onyx, and red granite offers multiple seating venues and clever cocktails. Pair chile-pepper-spiked Manhattans with crabmeat beignets and baked potato fritters, pomegranate margaritas with lamb in spicy tomato sauce and toasted hominy, or glasses of boutique wine with prime New York strips. Show up in jeans with the family or decked out for the Houston Opera’s season opener October 23 with a special date. 1800 Post Oak Boulevard; 713/840-1111; rdgbarannie.com.
LAS VEGAS
RAKU
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: A chef hangout for stellar Japanese food in a surprise setting.
Tucked within a mini-mall that’s seen better days, this tiny James Beard Best New Restaurant semifinalist has become a favorite off-Strip lure for members of the town’s celeb chef club. Credit the culinary wizardry of owner-chef Mitsuo Endo, whose daily offerings may include exotic ideas such as grilled pork ear or pickled bonito or the moderately tame scallops sautéed in butter, Kobe beef skewers, or portabella with chicken. No matter what you settle on, you’ll be utterly seduced by the food and reasonable prices. 5030 W. Spring Mountain Road; 702/367-3511; raku-grill.com.
SWITCH
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Entertainment lies in decor and menu drama at the Strip’s newest showplace.
Nobody does dinner-as-theater at Steve Wynn’s level except the master himself. In a dining room where the walls and ceiling change color and shape every 20 minutes, the food must be thrilling to capture your attention. Thanks to chef Rene Lenger it does, in the form of lobster salad with artichoke and asparagus in a truffle vinaigrette and in seared Alaskan halibut with sweet-pea coulis. Dressy patrons linger at the table over dessert, paired with pours from a roving Champagne cart, or cozy up at a bar specializing in the finest boutique bourbons on the planet. 3131 Las Vegas Boulevard South; 702/248-3463.
PHOENIX
NOCA
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Tasting menus and a smart mix of background music combine for a memorable meal in the desert.
Named for its trendy North of Camelback locale, Noca’s innovative dishes had critics swooning at its summer opening. The wow factor comes in a daily-changing menu featuring locally-grown organic vegetables, meat from Chicago, and seafood from an exclusive supplier. Moderately priced tasting menus have offered lobster roll with duck-fat French fries and crudo decorated with chile oil and avocado mousse. 3118 E. Camelback Road; 602/956-6622; restaurantnoca.com.
SAN FRANCISCO
BAR JULES
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: It’s a daily adventure for the palate at this foodie haunt, which doubles as a stylish wine bar.
Adored soups are among the numerous reasons for heading to chef Jessica Boncutter’s casual hangout, which opened last year in Hayes Valley. An intimate space, Bar Jules should be shared with a partner passionate about the fresh finds posted on a blackboard menu. You’ll be knocked over by the offbeat sensibilities found in well-priced jewels such as prawns with smoked fennel and lemon aioli and wood-grilled quail with figs and wild arugula. 609 Hayes Street; 415/621-5482; barjules.com.
OSTERIA STELLINA
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: A short detour from the city proper takes you on a healthy Italian voyage.
A jaunt to Point Reyes Station in West Marin rewards you with an unforgettable meal in homey surroundings. The utilitarian diner has an open kitchen and decor of fresh flowers and produce, but the food is why you’re here: Inexpensive, understated dishes include a lovely mixture of gigante beans simmered with rosemary and garlic-braised chard; pizza with a lush yet crisp-bottomed crust adorned with a pure tomato sauce, nettles, and freshly made mozzarella; and a pasta plate of bucatini with Manila clams and chiles. 11285 Highway 1; 415/663-9988; osteriastellina.com.
LOS ANGELES
ANIMAL
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: This insider’s haunt seduces Angelenos and visitors alike with its carnivorous carnival.
The Food Network’s 2 Dudes Catering duo of Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook, who both nabbed Food & Wine Best New Chef honors this summer, have taken L.A. by storm with their brazen approach to meat, meat, and more meat. There’s no sign out front, but movie stars and hard-core foodies are finding this ultra-hip new arrival to dig into the likes of flatiron steak with asparagus, chanterelles, and truffle-Parmesan fondue; a burger topped with foie gras, quail egg, and – no kidding – Spam; and balsamic-glazed pork ribs with grilled corn. 435 N. Fairfax Avenue; 323/782-9225; animalrestaurant.com.
THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: Set in high style, Spain’s greatest gift to American palates proves that more is indeed better after all.
This exotic gathering spot intrigues with its multiple-personality approach at the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills. Opened by José Andrés, the Spanish restaurateur-chef who conquered Washington, D.C., with stellar restaurants, this complex of “magical food experiences” offers Rojo y Blanca, where you find such tapas as marinated mussels in escabeche, served from a tin sardine can; the Patisserie, a place for taking high tea and nibbling on foie gras sandwiches and bonbons flavored with lemon-ginger and star anise; and Bar Centro, dominated by an etched, black-glass bar, where guests sip mojitos poured over clouds of cotton candy and graze on crabmeat and pickled cucumber sandwiches and caviar served on steamed buns. Throughout The Bazaar, a roving cart dispenses goodies such as cones filled with soy-marinated salmon roe and herbed cream cheese or caviar crowned with cauliflower puree. 465 S. La Cienega Boulevard; 310/246-5555; thebazaar.com.
SEATTLE
SPRING HILL
WHY IT’S WORTH A VISIT: A seafood-savvy menu lures with unexpected pleasures.
Seattle native Mark Fuller presents his renditions of Northwest cuisine in a small, sexy space replacing a former floral shop. Roughly 95 percent of the somewhat pricey menu represents regional ingredients, such as local oysters on the half shell, Northwest shrimp and grits, and rainbow trout with spicy green beans, brown butter, and toasted hazelnuts, along with veggies from Fuller’s own garden. 4437 California Avenue Southwest; 206/935-1075; springhillnorthwest.com.